The SUB 300T Whitepearl is not trying to be the most subtle diver in the room, nor the most vintage-faithful. Instead, it asks a simple question: what happens when one of the most recognisable professional dive-watch silhouettes is stripped of DOXA’s usual saturated colour and given a crisp, almost polar white dial? So when DOXA asked us which watch we’d like to spend some time with we quickly jumped at the chance to see just how good the 300T Whitepearl really is.

DOXA was founded in 1889 by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle, Switzerland, and for much of its early life the brand was associated with practical, robust timekeeping rather than luxury theatre. Long before the SUB line, DOXA had built a reputation around reliable movements and even dashboard instruments, including eight-day calibres used in early motoring applications.

The defining chapter, however, arrived in the 1960s. Recreational diving was moving from specialist pursuit to broader obsession, and DOXA wanted to build a watch that was not merely water resistant, but genuinely useful underwater. The original SUB 300, launched in 1967, brought together several now-famous ideas: a highly legible dial, an oversized minute hand, a cushion case, and a rotating bezel that paired elapsed time with U.S. Navy no-decompression dive limits.

Then came the SUB 300T Conquistador. Introduced at the end of the 1960s, it is widely remembered as one of the first commercially available dive watches equipped with a helium release valve — a feature intended for saturation divers working in pressurised environments. That technical link matters because the modern SUB 300T is not a vague retro exercise. It is a direct descendant of a watch built to solve actual diving problems.

The current-generation SUB 300T itself was presented in September 2019 as a tribute to the SUB 300T Conquistador. The Whitepearl dial joined DOXA’s wider family of white-dial SUB models in 2022, alongside Whitepearl versions of the SUB 300, SUB 300 Carbon, SUB 600T and SUB 1500T. In other words, the watch is modern DOXA in full colourway-expansion mode, but based on a case and concept with very serious roots.

That distinction is important. The Whitepearl is not a limited-edition novelty, and it does not depend on faux patina or commemorative numbering to justify itself. Its appeal is more straightforward: take the most capable steel SUB in the current catalogue, keep the 1,200-metre rating and helium valve, and dress it in DOXA’s brightest, cleanest dial colour.

Specifications

The headline figure is, of course, the 1,200-metre depth rating. Most owners will never ask even a fraction of that from the watch, but that is part of the charm. The SUB 300T is unapologetically over-engineered, and the Whitepearl dial does not soften its specification sheet.

DOXA is best known for colour: Professional orange, Searambler silver, Caribbean navy, Divingstar yellow, Sharkhunter black. Whitepearl changes the visual language without erasing the identity. The dial is flat, clean white rather than shimmering mother-of-pearl, which is good news. A pearlescent dial would risk turning the SUB 300T into something it is not. This is still a functional diver, just one with a fresh-shirt crispness.

The black hands, markers and minute-track details sit starkly against the dial, making the Whitepearl arguably one of the most immediately legible versions of the watch. It does not have the underwater mythology of DOXA orange, but it does have contrast — and contrast is what you actually read.

On the wrist, the familiar DOXA cushion case works its old trick. At 42.5mm, the watch sounds large, but the short lug-to-lug measurement keeps it surprisingly contained. It wears broad rather than long, with the case spreading across the wrist like a polished and brushed steel pebble. The beads-of-rice bracelet adds comfort and a touch of vintage charm, though the overall impression remains tool-watch first.

Compared with the original SUB 300 of 1967, the modern SUB 300T is the more extreme proposition. The early SUB 300 established the orange-dial, no-decompression-bezel formula and offered 300 metres of water resistance. The current SUB 300T takes that template and turns up the professional-diver hardware: a helium release valve, a much deeper 1,200-metre rating, and a flatter sapphire crystal that gives the dial a more open, instrument-like appearance.

Against the late-1960s SUB 300T Conquistador, the relationship is more direct. The modern watch preserves the broad cushion case, the eccentric bezel and the saturation-diving intent, but benefits from contemporary materials and tolerances. Sapphire replaces vintage acrylic, stainless-steel construction is cleaner, and the water resistance moves far beyond the original brief.

The closest current comparison is the SUB 300. That watch is slimmer in feel, more vintage in spirit and typically positioned as the purist’s choice, helped by its domed crystal and COSC-certified movement. The SUB 300T is less romantic but more muscular. It is the one to choose if the specification sheet matters, if the helium valve matters, or if you simply prefer your DOXA to feel like a small submarine on the wrist.

The Whitepearl dial also changes the comparison. Classic orange is the historical choice. Silver feels closest to vintage understatement. Black is the safest. Whitepearl is the cleanest and perhaps the most contemporary, especially on the white rubber strap, where it becomes a summer dive watch with genuine depth credentials rather than merely a nautical accessory.

The DOXA SUB 300T Whitepearl is not the most historically obvious DOXA, and that may be its strength. It lets the shape, bezel and specification carry the heritage while the dial gives the watch a sharper, more modern personality. It is still quirky, still thick with purpose, and still visibly descended from one of diving’s great tool-watch families.

If you want the definitive DOXA story on your wrist, buy orange. If you want the most capable modern steel SUB with a dial that feels crisp, legible and a little unexpected, the Whitepearl makes a strong case. It is less Cousteau nostalgia and more bright, functional confidence — a serious dive watch that just happens to look very good above sea level.

With the white dial this is a distinctive, highly capable and refreshingly clean take on DOXA’s most specification-heavy vintage-inspired diver. Not the purist’s colourway, perhaps, but the easiest to wear. It’s comfortable, melts into the wrist, hold the visual charm of traditional DOXA’s while pairing astonishingly well with almost everything (except perhaps a suit).

Sadly, after a few weeks of travelling, I had to return this fantastic watch to DOXA—but even in that short time, I knew that if I ever bought a DOXA, this would be the one. What’s more, at under £1,900 for a vintage-inspired dive watch with genuine heritage and a 1,200-metre depth rating, this could well be the bargain of the century.

The DOXA 300T is available now for £1890 on a steel bracelet or £1850 on Rubber. For more information or to purchase, please visit: www.doxawatches.com

Back in 2023 we spent time with Artem’s sailcloth straps and came away impressed by the way they balanced the practical benefits of a technical strap with a more refined look than most rubber or NATO options. Since then, Artem has continued to build out the range, and the latest Loop-less HydroFlex straps look, at least on paper, like the most complete expression of what the brand has been trying to do all along: a premium, water-friendly, low-profile strap with no keepers, no flapping tail, and no obvious compromise.

So, are they meaningfully better than Artem’s already very good Loop-less standard Sailcloth straps, or are we simply looking at another variation for those of us who have long since accepted that the strap drawer will never truly be complete?

Artem has made its name by offering premium aftermarket straps that aim to sit closer to OEM quality than the usual third-party fare. The company’s standard and Loop-less sailcloth straps use an embossed synthetic upper rather than literal yacht sailcloth, with the underside treated for comfort and resistance to sweat and water. That distinction matters. Genuine sailcloth may sound romantic, but it is not necessarily the material you would want rubbing against your wrist all day.

The Loop-less concept is Artem’s tidier take on the deployant strap. Instead of using a traditional buckle and loose keeper, the excess length is tucked beneath the strap once the clasp is closed. The result is a very clean appearance on wrist, closer in spirit to the way Omega’s Cordura or rubber deployant straps wear, and noticeably neater than a traditional pin buckle setup.

The Loop-less HydroFlex takes the existing Loop-less idea and pairs it with Artem’s more rubber-forward HydroFlex construction. Where the standard Loop-less Sailcloth strap is more structured and textile-like in character, HydroFlex is designed to bring greater flexibility, water resistance, and immediate comfort. Artem describes the newer Loop-less HydroFlex as using advanced FKM rubber, giving it a softer and more pliable feel while retaining the visual language of a stitched, sailcloth-style strap.

That is the appeal here. It looks less like a conventional rubber strap than most rubber straps do, but behaves much more like one in daily use. For a modern sports watch, diver, chronograph or anything that might reasonably find itself near water, that is a compelling proposition.

Out of the packaging, the Loop-less HydroFlex feels notably more compliant than the standard Loop-less Sailcloth strap. That may not sound especially exciting, but it matters enormously. A strap can be beautifully finished and still spend the first week fighting the shape of your wrist. The HydroFlex does not do that in the same way. It has enough substance to feel premium, but not so much stiffness that it needs to be bullied into shape.

The stitching is neat, the surface texture gives the right impression of technical fabric, and the overall finishing is reassuringly crisp. The clasp remains the defining feature. Once sized correctly, you close it, the tail disappears beneath the strap, and the whole thing presents as a clean continuous loop around the wrist. No keeper wandering around, no loose end working itself free, no need to tuck anything back under itself.

On the wrist is where HydroFlex makes its case most convincingly. The standard Loop-less Sailcloth is already a very good strap, but it has a more padded, structured personality. That gives it a dressier, almost OEM-style presence, especially on watches such as a Speedmaster, Seamaster, Tudor Black Bay, or similar modern sports watch. It looks expensive, and it makes the watch feel more deliberately styled.

The HydroFlex feels more relaxed. It conforms to the wrist more readily and has the easygoing comfort you expect from a good rubber strap, while still avoiding the overly utilitarian look that can make some rubber straps feel better suited to a wetsuit than a shirt cuff. It is sporty, but not crude. Practical, but not cheap-looking.

The absence of keepers also changes the wearing experience more than you might expect. If you are used to conventional rubber straps, you will know the small irritation of keepers moving around or trapping the strap tail at an odd angle. Artem’s Loop-less system removes that entirely. It is a small thing, but small things are often exactly what determine whether a strap stays on a watch for a week or ends up back in the drawer after an afternoon.

HydroFlex versus Loop-less Sailcloth

The easiest way to separate the two is not to think of one as better and the other as worse. They do different jobs.

The standard Loop-less Sailcloth remains the more elegant of the two. It has that slightly firmer, more tailored feel and suits watches where you want to lift the presentation without making the watch feel too casual. If you like the idea of a strap that could pass as something a manufacturer might have offered as a premium deployant option, the standard Sailcloth is still very much in the conversation.

The HydroFlex is the one you choose if you actually want to use the watch hard. It is better suited to heat, sweat, water, travel and the sort of daily wear that makes leather a poor idea and cheap rubber a depressing one. It is the more comfortable strap from day one, and it arguably makes more sense if the watch in question is a diver or a modern tool watch.

Where the Hydroflex wins big is comfort. There is less of that initial strap stiffness that can come with sailcloth-style options, and the rubber construction makes the HydroFlex feel more forgiving as your wrist expands and contracts during the day. In warmer weather, that counts for a lot.

It also feels like the more honest all-weather strap. Many straps are marketed as water resistant, but still give you a moment of hesitation before you actually get them wet. The HydroFlex invites fewer second thoughts. If you are packing one strap for a holiday, or want one strap to take a watch from office to airport to poolside, this is the one that makes the stronger argument.

The standard Loop-less Sailcloth has not been made redundant. Far from it. If anything, the arrival of HydroFlex clarifies its role. It is the smarter strap. It has a more formal structure, a more pronounced sailcloth identity, and a slightly more considered look on the wrist. On the right chronograph or sports watch it can feel very close to an OEM upgrade.

If your watch spends more time under a cuff than underwater, the standard Sailcloth may still be the better choice. It dresses a watch up rather than simply making it more practical. That distinction may sound subtle, but visually it is quite important.

Deployant clasps tend to divide opinion. Some people love the security and convenience, others dislike the additional metal beneath the wrist. Artem’s Loop-less system makes a strong case because it does more than simply replace a pin buckle. It changes the whole profile of the strap and solves the problem of excess length in a very clean way.

It does, however, need to fit you properly. As with any deployant system, wrist size and clasp position matter. If the clasp sits in the wrong place on the underside of your wrist, you may notice it. Once dialled in, though, the experience is excellent. It is quick to put on, secure when closed, and it avoids bending and stressing the strap in the way a traditional buckle can over time.

Artem straps are not inexpensive, and there is no point pretending otherwise. This is premium aftermarket territory, and the full strap-and-clasp combination is priced accordingly. But value in this space is not simply about the cheapest way to attach a watch to your wrist. It is about whether the strap feels appropriate on the watch you are wearing.Put a flimsy strap on a good watch and the whole experience is diminished. Put a well-made strap on the same watch and it can genuinely feel refreshed. Artem understands this, and the Loop-less HydroFlex sits firmly in that category of strap that makes sense on watches where a cheaper option would feel like a false economy.

The Artem Loop-less HydroFlex is not simply a rubber version of the standard Loop-less Sailcloth. It is a subtly different proposition and, for many people, probably the more versatile one. It keeps the clean, keeper-free brilliance of the Loop-less design, adds a more compliant and water-ready construction, and ends up feeling like a genuinely useful evolution rather than a marketing-led variant.

If you want the smartest-looking option, the standard Loop-less Sailcloth still has a strong claim. If you want the easiest strap to live with every day, especially through summer, travel, water and general wear, the Loop-less HydroFlex is the one we would choose.

In short, Artem has closed the loop rather neatly. The standard Sailcloth remains the polished choice; the HydroFlex is the practical one. The fact that both make sense is probably the clearest sign that Artem knows exactly what they are doing.

Artem’s Loopless Hydroflex straps are available globally at www.artemstraps.com from £177

This is not Vulcain trying to reinvent the travel watch. Nor is it a hard-edged modern diver pretending to have patina in its soul. It is a small, handsome and usefully specified GMT that feels like a natural next step for the Nautique line — a watch that has already proved there is still plenty of appetite for sensibly sized divers with proper heritage behind them.

Vulcain is one of those names that deserves to be better known outside the circle of vintage watch obsessives. Founded in 1858 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by the Ditisheim family, the manufacture built its reputation through precision pocket watches, complicated pieces and, eventually, wristwatches. By the late 19th and early 20th century, Vulcain was collecting awards at international fairs and establishing itself as a serious Swiss maker rather than a passing name on a dial.

The brand’s great horological calling card arrived in 1947 with the Cricket, a mechanical alarm wristwatch with a sound strong enough to be useful. It became known as the “President’s Watch” thanks to its association with a succession of American presidents, from Harry S. Truman onwards. That story has tended to dominate Vulcain’s identity, but it only tells part of it. Alongside the Cricket, the brand also made serious tool watches, including the Nautical alarm diver of the early 1960s and the simpler Nautique skin divers that inspire the watch that Vulcain kindly lent us to spend some time with.

The modern Skindiver Nautique arrived in January 2023 as Vulcain’s revival of a 1960s diver. The recipe was pleasingly straightforward: a 38mm steel case, 200 metres of water resistance, a domed sapphire crystal, a ceramic bezel and a dial that looked vintage without becoming theatrical. It was the kind of watch that made immediate sense — not because it shouted, but because it didn’t need to.

Vulcain then began to build around that foundation, adding new colours, case materials and bracelet options. In 2024, the first Skindiver Nautique GMT appeared as a limited collaborative edition with Italian retailer Gioielleria Rosaspina and watch creator TOC. The wider production Skindiver Nautique GMT followed on 18 June 2025, bringing the dual-time concept properly into Vulcain’s regular collection.

The headline here is proportion. At 38.3mm across and 12.2mm thick, the Nautique GMT is refreshingly restrained for an automatic GMT diver. It has enough presence to feel purposeful, but it never strays into the overbuilt territory that can make travel divers feel more like equipment than companions. The 20mm lug width also means it should be a willing strap platform, though the steel bracelet and Tropic-style rubber options suit the character of the watch best.

The case is vertically brushed 316L stainless steel, with a polished screw-down caseback and no crown guards. That last detail matters. Crown guards would have made it more obviously modern, but the exposed crown keeps the silhouette closer to the mid-century skin diver brief. The double-domed sapphire crystal does the same job, catching reflections in a way that recalls acrylic without the day-to-day fragility.

The bezel is black ceramic and bi-directional, with a 24-hour scale rather than a dive timing scale. That choice makes the watch feel more like a GMT first and a diver second, though the 200-metre rating means the aquatic credentials are more than decorative. The red GMT hand adds just enough colour without disturbing the otherwise clean black-and-white layout.

The standard black-dial references come with either crisp white Super-LumiNova or warmer beige Super-LumiNova. The white-lume version is the cleaner, more contemporary option, while the beige-lume model leans harder into the old-watch mood. Both are easy to understand at a glance, which is exactly what a watch like this should be. A date at 3 o’clock will divide opinion, as dates always do, but on a travel watch it makes practical sense.

There is also a pleasing lack of clutter. The dial text is minimal, the handset is familiar and legible, and the GMT hand is obvious without becoming cartoonish. It feels considered rather than designed by committee.

Inside is the Soprod C125 automatic GMT movement. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, offers a 42-hour power reserve and provides hours, minutes, seconds, date and GMT functionality. Importantly, the 24-hour hand can be adjusted independently, making it straightforward to track a second time zone while travelling or working across markets.

This is not an in-house prestige movement and it does not need to be. Vulcain’s historic movement story belongs to the Cricket and Nautical alarm watches. The Nautique GMT is a practical tool watch, and the Soprod calibre suits that brief: Swiss, reliable, serviceable and slim enough to keep the case height under control.

Specifications

The Nautique GMT enters a crowded world of vintage-inspired divers, but it has two things in its favour. First, Vulcain has genuine archive material to work with. The watch is not borrowing someone else’s mid-century mood; it is building from its own catalogue. Second, the proportions are spot on. A 38mm GMT diver with 200 metres of water resistance is still not especially common, and the restraint gives the watch much of its charm.

It will not satisfy everyone. Those who want a true traveller GMT with an independently jumping local-hour hand may look elsewhere. Those who prefer contemporary case design may find it too nostalgic. But for anyone after a compact, nicely judged, heritage-rich GMT diver from a historic Swiss name, the Vulcain makes a compelling case.

The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT is exactly the sort of watch that proves refinement can be more interesting than reinvention. It takes a familiar idea — the vintage diver — and gives it just enough modern utility to feel useful rather than decorative. The result is a watch with a clear identity, sensible sizing, strong water resistance and a price that still feels grounded when compared with much of the Swiss competition.

This is not a hype watch, and it is not trying to be. It is a well-proportioned GMT diver from a brand with real history, wearing its heritage lightly and doing the basics very well. Sometimes, that is more than enough.

The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT is available here www.vulcain.ch from £1770

Christopher Ward have grown over the years to become one of the most well respected British brands in watch making. Taking a bold approach to transparency and without high street or retail presence (until their recent partnership with Time+Tide) . In more recent years, models like the Bel-canto, the Twelve and the Loco have demonstrated the brands ability to diversify, innovate and push the boundaries for affordable watchmaking competing with much bigger brands and showing what’s possible with creative design and innovation.

While dive watches clearly dominate the sports watch category, they do have their down sides. features like helium escape valves and rotating bezels, along with cases designed to resist the pressures of the deep (usually far deeper than most humans will ever actually dive), this often creates the proportions and aesthetics that while functional (and are great by the pool or the beach) some feel are too bulky to be worn everywhere. Field watches often occupy that segment better – a go anywhere do anything watch (within reason). This is why watches like the Rolex Explorer are so popular as they can be worn swimming, mountaineering, or to dinner with aesthetics that are easy on the eye and yet robustly functional.

The Aeolian was released earlier this year by Christopher Ward as an update to the Dune field watch released two years ago. Following the limited-edition Dune called The Shoreline in collaboration with Oracle Time, which sold out incredibly fast, the Dune Aeolian builds on that concept with more refined details, versatile colours, and improved straps.

“Three-dimensional textured dials are not something we’d done much before The Twelve,” says Mike France, Christopher Ward’s co-founder and CEO. “But they’re exciting and can truly bring a watch to life. Dune Aeolian’s dial is very different to the Twelve’s, though: with no sharp corners, it’s undulating and organic.”

The Dune Aeolian builds on the already great formula with 4 dial colourways:- Silica grey, Eve blue, Marram green, and White Sand. In addition, there are also two bronze variants with a Dusk brown or Marram green dial. Interestingly Christopher Ward chose to release the bronze dialled watches with greater accuracy as COSC models for a £235 premium – but we’ll get to the price later…

So what does it do? Well it tells the time. simply, yet elegantly and reliably – the but where a field watch would typically pursue function over form, this embodies an attention to detail not often seen. The pursuit of the superfluous in delivery of charm and character at the same time as delivering a robust go anywhere do anything watch. Rather than delivering a sterile, plain dial lacks interest, this watch delivers a beautiful textured dial while still arguably maintaining the same easy readability that you would come to expect from a field watch. Although there is some text on the dial, it’s position and size mean it doesn’t detract from the easy legibility.

The stainless steel case measures 38mm across by 11.9mm and features a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces. On the top is a box sapphire crystal and underneath is an exhibition case back allowing you to see the movement with the decorated Christopher Ward rotor. The crown is beautifully embossed with Christopher Ward’s logo and screws into the case. Altogether these deliver 150m of water resistance – far more capability and reassurance of its abilities than will be put to the test by you or I!

But look a further and you will find the inside of the crown painted red – this becomes more easily visible once the crown is unscrewed and acts as a visual aide-memoir to prevent you accidentally leaving the crown undone. Flip the watch over and you will see a screw down exhibition case back and a decorated rotor adorning a Sellita SW200-1 movement – nothing fancy, but proven, robust, and easy to service. A nice touch here is that there is no ‘ghost’ date mechanism: release the crown to wind and pull the crown out one position to change the time.

On the front of the watch the dial clearly steals the show. with a deep contoured pattern resembling grooves in the sane blown by the wind the contours add a wonderful sense of depth. Adding to this are both the Christopher ward logo and applied indices which have a generous in-fill of super Luminova helping this to remain clearly visible long after the lights have gone out.

The Aeolian now comes on a new ‘Orlando’ leather strap that’s soft, supple and needs no breaking in. It’s fitted with quick release spring bars and suits the watch well. Overall this is a brilliantly designed and executed field watch that’s at home whether hiking in the mountains, taking a dip in the ocean or dressing up for a night out. It’s also extremely well proportioned, at 38mm it sits at a universal sweet spot that suits so many wrist sizes. We’ve now had this watch on loan from Christopher Ward for a number of months and have thoroughly put it through its paces. It’s been a great summer watch and as you can see from the photos almost looks like it was made for a NATO (which would be a great option for Christopher Ward to supply with the watch!)

While lots of the attention towards Christopher Ward has focused on the Twelve, the Bel Canto and the other great innovations, the Aeolian delivers a go-anywhere do-anything field watch that is quite frankly a bargain starting at £750.

The Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian is available from www.christopherward.com from £750

Longines has now released the new ‘Legend Diver 59’ returning to the 42mm diameter of the original. This new version favours a Milanese bracelet with a revised clasp integrating a push button micro adjustment underneath. In addition it comes in a presentation box along with a tropic rubber strap with a pin buckle closure, and a Longines spring bar tool.

Inside the same COSC certified L888.6 movement powers the watch bringing with it 72 hours (3 days) of power reserve. with its 300m water resistance, it has also undergone the full ISO 6425 Certification meaning that each watch is tested to 125% of its claimed depth.

We’re big fans of the Legend Diver having spent considerable time with the original 2007 no-date release as well as the no-date bronze that was released in November 2020. This new iteration combines the 42mm design proportions and updated crowns that are sympathetic to the original along with a COSC 72 hour updated movement. In our eyes this is the best of both worlds delivering an incredibly sympathetic aesthetic to the original in a watch that will stand up to modern lifestyle.

The New Legend Diver 59 is available now from Longines for £3550

Find out more at www.longines.com

The Longines Spirit Pilot features a redesigned stainless steel 39 mm case with improved ergonomics and a refined aesthetic keeping the charm of the case profile and complementing brushed and polished surfaces. Rather than being secured by 6 screws the new caseback is screwed down into the case. Speaking of which, the case height has been reduced from 12.2mm to 11.5.

The clean matt black dial has done away with the 5 stars and replaces them with two lines of text: “Chronometer – Officially certified” along with the removal of the date window at 3. The Spirit Pilot is powered by the same Longines self-winding calibre L888.4, featuring a silicon balance-spring that provides magnetic resistance 10 times greater than the ISO 764 standard.

This is available on stainless steel bracelet featuring a double safety folding clasp with micro-adjustment, a brown leather strap on Longines deployant clasp which features an on the fly integrated micro adjustment, or a new textile-style green rubber strap with pin buckle.

CALIBRE
• Longines automatic calibre L888.4
• COSC Certified Chronometer
• Silicon balance-spring – resistant to magnetic fields (ISO 764)
• 11½ lines, 21 jewels, 25 200 vibrations per hour
• Power reserve: up to 72 hours
CASE
• Ø 39 mm; thickness 11.5 mm
• Domed sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating on both sides
• Screw-down crown
• Screw-down case back
• Distance between lugs: 20 mm
Water Resistance
• 100m / 10 bar

We first saw this watch earlier this year at an invitation only event held by Longines under embargo. Embodying the clean aesthetics from the titanium version but now in steel and at a size suitable for a broad range of wrist sizes this stood out as an immediate favourite of the event – along with the white 39mm legend diver also revealed at the same event. We only hope that like the legend diver Longines will also choose to release this is a white dialled variant.

With its 100m water resistance, simple yet classy aesthetics, ideal proportions and high-performing COSC movement this is a frankly stunning value proposition that could equally serve in both formal and more casual social settings alike – a perfect GADA (Go Anywhere Do Anything) watch.

The Longines Spirit Pilot is available now at www.longines.com from £2150

Despite the uncertainty surrounding its origins, Longines saw the potential in the design and decided to create a modern interpretation. The result was the Avigation BigEye, a watch that pays homage to aviation timepieces of the past while incorporating contemporary features.

The Avigation BigEye is characterized by its bold and functional design. The most striking feature is of course the oversized 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock, which gives the watch its “BigEye” name. This asymmetrical layout is not only visually distinctive but also enhances legibility, making it a practical choice for pilots. Having a 30 minute register for minutes and oversized markers every third minute makes it quicker and easier to read the dial than a 60 minute register where your eyes are trying to distinguish between smaller gaps between the markers. Its only a small detail, but one that counts when using the chronograph in the real world.

The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish, a domed sapphire crystal, and a black dial with large Arabic numerals. Looking at the dimensions alone you may be mistaken in thinking that this is a large watch due in part to the the depth of the watch AT 14.5mm however numbers only tell half the story. Due to its proportions and the way in which the case is divided as well as the way in which the lugs are designed, the watch sits remarkably snug to your wrist.

The overall design is both rugged and elegant, reflecting its military-inspired roots through its minimalistic implementation. The dial is not adorned with any superfluous details or unnecessary text. The pushers are oversized, allowing for easy operation even while wearing gloves—a nod to its aviation heritage.

Inside, the watch is powered by the Longines L688.2 movement, an automatic column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch. This movement ensures precise timekeeping and adds a touch of modern sophistication to the vintage aesthetic. The column wheel not only serves to provide a beautiful tactile engagement of the chronograph, but also to prevent someone from wrongly pushing the reset button while the movement is running as it disconnects the lower pusher from the mechanism – preventing an unwanted and expensive trip to the servicing department to repair a damaged movement. It would have been easy to have adopted a much simpler or cost efficient movement, however this is exactly where Longines displays its class – where it cant be seen but details matter.

The Avigation BigEye has not only won the hearts of watch enthusiasts but also garnered critical acclaim. It received the “Best Revival” award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), a prestigious recognition in the watchmaking world. This accolade underscores Longines’ success in reimagining a historical design for contemporary audiences.

What sets the Avigation BigEye apart is its combination of mystery, functionality, and design excellence. It bridges the gap between past and present, offering a timepiece that is both a tribute to history and a modern powerhouse. Its enigmatic origins only add to its allure, making it a conversation starter and a cherished addition to any collection.

The chronograph market is quite a saturated space with some of the most famous watches in the world including the Omega Speedmaster Professional, the Rolex Daytona, Breitling Navitimer, Heuer Carrera and IWC Pilot’s Chronograph just to name a few – but this watch from Longines embodies a level of class that quietly delivers all of the goods at a price point putting the rest to shame.

Longines has itself a number of chronographs in this space so what sets this particular chronograph apart, why is it so good and yet so affordable? Well firstly the dial is almost stark by most measures. A simple clean aesthetic clearly showing both the time and chronograph counters with minimal text or unnecessary design it has become ironically simplistic in its delivery of information. Bearing only the words “Longines” and “Automatic” on the dial many will concur that certainly in this instance; less is more. Moreover in terms of design language, while the conquest chronograph and the spirit chronograph are clearly part of their respective product lines, the Avigation Bigeye stands alone with its own unique identity – and therein a sense of purity.

Where the Avigation Bigeye really scores is in its incredible sense of value – delivering an automatic column wheel chronograph, with modest proportions that almost anyone can wear, killer aesthetics and from one of the oldest watch brands in the world – all for under £3000 – half the price of an Omega Speedmaster Professional or IWC Pilot Chronograph.

Could this be the best value proposition for a chronograph? – a heritage inspired watch, accessibly sized with classic aesthetics and a column wheel movement with a vertical clutch – from one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers – and all for under £3000.

As always we recommend you experience this for yourself – however if you’d like to see someone else’s opinion on it, we lent this very watch to a good friend Adrian Barker (Bark&Jack) and you can see what he thought of it here:

The Longines Avigation Bigeye is available from www.Longines.com for £2950

But what do you think? – Let us know your thoughts in the comments below.

While these are still good watches at the £400 price point, Seiko are often criticised for their poor build quality, cheap feel and misaligned bezels accompanied by movements that run within laughable tolerances like -35 sec to +45sec a day (that’s up to 1min and 20 seconds variance per day!) However context is key here. Seiko are a full in-house watch company making every single piece of the watch’s internal and external components. They do so offering a fully mechanical watch to the consumer that is easily serviceable for many years to come and often these comparisons are made against watches that are 10 to 20 times the price as consumers get to see and feel more expensive brands on the high street such as TAG Heuer, Longines and Tudor – where the differences and build quality are like chalk and cheese. The majority of consumers are probably not even aware that Seiko makes ‘high-end’ models with premium materials, let alone get to see and experience one as they are much harder to find in a shop window and are often displayed along side cheaper Prospex models leading consumers to presume the price tag must be wrong.

So what do you get when you go “all-in” and buy a top of the range SLA series Seiko? Well we’ve been spending time with Seiko’s SLA073 to see just how it stacks up and what makes it different from

While most of Seiko range including the Seiko 5 and the normal Prospex models are mass produced, Seiko’s premium SLA watches are not made in the same factory or to the same standards. Instead, Seiko choose have them made alongside their more expensive stable-mate Grand Seiko in a facility more akin to the craftsmanship and experience you would see and expect in a Swiss atelier.

The Shizukuishi Watch Studio, located in the Iwate Prefecture of Japan, is the sole facility in Japan specializing in the production of high-end mechanical watches. It’s specifically where Grand Seiko’s 9S mechanical movements and watches are crafted. The studio is known for its integrated approach to watchmaking, encompassing everything from movement assembly to metal engraving, all performed by highly skilled technicians. Its here that the 8L35 is assembled and finished by hand. The 8L35 is essentially an undecorated version of the Grand Seiko calibre 9S55 with a larger diameter balance wheel to handle the torque needed for the larger dive watch hands. Although one notable difference is that the 8L35 is not adjusted or regulated to the same standards and tolerances as the GS9S55. So what does this mean in the real world? Well Seiko claims the accuracy of the 8L35 as -10/+15 seconds per day under normal temperature conditions (between 5-35 degrees C). While is possible that you may purchase a watch with an 8L35 that runs at +1 or +2 seconds a day (which lots of owners seem to claim) its equally possible that you could buy one that’s +15 seconds a day and that’s perfectly within Seiko claimed tolerances. This would mean that it’s gaining close to two minutes a week. As opposed to a COSC movement that gains a maximum of 42 seconds a week. This particular SLA073J1 is running at + 3 seconds per day. By shipping unregulated movements Seiko are clearly trying to protect the value of their Grand Seiko brand, however should you wish, you could have your 8L35 regulated which will then run within the same tolerances as movements shipped by Grand Seiko.

A hallmark of Grand Seiko is its attention to detail on the surface of its dials – something it has become world renown for – producing some of the most beautiful and elegant textured surfaces that are admired the world over. Here the SLA073 has inherited some of this attention to detail from its bigger brother and has been treated to a gradient ice blue textured dial paying homage to cave divers who wore the original 1968 Seiko Diver this model is based on. While this dial is not made by Grand Seiko, it does offer a gorgeous level of depth and detail. A date window sits between 4 & 5 ensuring the continuity of symmetry of the hour indices which are treated with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite which brings a number of benefits including both a longer duration and higher intensity making the dial very easy to read in dim or pitch black environments. Exposing the dial to direct sunlight for 10 minutes is enough to allow the indices to glow for 3-5 hours. Even on an overcast day, the LumiBrite is able to soak up a sufficient charge throughout the day to glow for many hours.

The case of the SLA073 includes surfaces that are Zaratsu polished which is a technique used to create a distortion-free, mirror-like surface on watch cases, and it is a hallmark of Grand Seiko and some other high-end Seiko watches. The SLA073, with its stainless steel case, features this polishing method to achieve its sharp edges and flat surfaces accompanied by alternating brushed surfaces. This is then treated with Seiko’s DiaShield coating. DiaShield is a surface treatment applied to the watch case to enhance scratch resistance and maintain the watch’s original appearance. It is a hard coating that protects the watch from minor scratches and scuffs, keeping it looking new for longer. The case shape tapers upwards at the edges allowing the case to sit comfortably on the wrist along with its iconic off-set precision milled crown at 4 o’clock. In addition the case includes drilled lugs that make strap changes a breeze as well as reducing the likelihood you’re going to scratch that Zaratsu polished case. Turn the watch over and the case back features Seiko’s signature deep engraving of the great wave of Kanagawa in the centre.

The unidirectional steel bezel is accompanied by a gloss finish black ceramic insert with a LumiBrite pip embedded within the top triangular marker and etched indices for each minute, 5 minutes and numerical values for each 10 minutes. The teeth on the bezel allow a very positive grip and the bezel action is spot on. Perfectly aligned with no play whatsoever – just a positive, reassuring, almost dampened feel to the rotation.

Bracelets are not Seiko’s strong suit. No matter the cost of the watch, the bracelets that have come on watches from Seiko are not good. They are typically hollow steel bracelets with pressed clasps put together with push pins rather than screws. While that may be acceptable on a watch that costs £100-£400 (some would say ‘expectedly commensurate’) I strongly feel that on Seiko’s best watches that customers are paying £2500 – £4000 there is a reasonable expectation for a solid, well designed and well built bracelet.

The bracelet on the SLA073 does have notable improvements. The links of the bracelet itself seem well made and display a combination of brushed and polished finishes tapering from 20mm to 18mm at the clasp with solid end links. The deployant clasp consists of a fold over safety clasp, twin buttons to release the top as well as a diver extension. However while the underside of the clasp is milled, the top is a piece of thin pressed steel with 4 holes for micro adjustment. The fold over safety clasp is also pressed steel with the Seiko logo laser etched on it. The divers extension on the bracelet is made entirely of stamped/pressed steel. This not only feels incredibly cheap and certainly not commensurate with a watch costing two to three thousand bounds, but due to its poor design the links do not fully articulate and remain at an angle when fully open and therefore unable to conform to the shape of your wrist. Unfortunately there are no screws present and the bracelet links are held together with push pins. Overall its clear that the bracelet has not had the same attention to detail that the actual watch itself has. Wearing the watch on the bracelet provides an acoustic ‘jangle’ due to the loose tolerances within the clasp. this is consistent with the feel of much cheaper Seiko’s

As an alternative, Seiko’s rubber straps are completely the opposite. These are very well made and include a metal collar embedded within the strap to accommodate Seiko’s fat spring bars allowing them to freely articulate and reinforce its connection to the watch. The buckle is substantial, milled and with a mixture of brushed and polished edges, and the rubber has a detailed and textured surface which includes a deeply embossed imaged of the Great Wave off Kanagawa on the tip in line with the case back.

Seiko’s take on the NATO strap called the Seichu is crafted using traditional Japanese braiding techniques, and pays homage to the artistry once used to create cords for securing kimono sashes. The result is a strap that not only showcases a distinctive Japanese aesthetic but also offers superior strength, flexibility, and all-day comfort.

Sadly the SLA073 doesn’t come with either of these two – both of which feel extremely comfortable and add to (rather than subtract from) the overall wearing experience.

Seiko have produced more expensive limited editions like the SLA055 & SLA057 which use Ever-Brilliant steel (which is 904L steel). While this may have improved corrosion resistance, 316L is actually a harder steel than 904L. Side by side with the human eye the difference is visually imperceptible, however at this increased price point, Seiko clearly feel their bracelet is not up to the price point as these come with both their rubber and Seichu straps but not the bracelet.

We’ve worn this SLA073 on its bracelet, on Seiko’s rubber strap and on a Bark & Jack Seventy30 (as seen above) and while the bracelet is comfortable to wear, it certainly doesn’t impart the same premium feel as the watch. Oddly the watch feels much better on the rubber or a NATO Strap.

Bracelet aside, this is a Seiko built using premium materials in a facility dedicated to attention to detail. The result is a well built, beautifully finished watch that certainly stands up to it’s price point and indeed imparts a premium sensation that you just dont get with cheaper Seiko watches. In addition it’s an ISO6425 dive watch meaning each and every watch is tested to 125% of its depth rating which is not something most of their competitors do.

The SLA073 is a serious luxury dive watch with a stunning dial, finished with Grand Seiko details. Ditch the bracelet and grab Seiko’s rubber or Seichu fabric strap for a level of understated luxury and enjoy an ‘under the radar’ watch that punches well above it’s weight.

Available from www.seikoboutique.co.uk for £2600

The new G40 is available in 3 dial variants: the traditional black dial, the White dial Sub Hunter and the iconic Sonar model – first envisioned as a homage to the CWC stopwatch used in the movie Mission Impossible 6 Fallout.

The dimensions give more wrist presence, improve legibility at a glance while maintaining all of the ‘tough as nails’ characteristics people love and expect from CWC. Each feature the same general specifications as the GS series from CWC including 200m water resistance, screw down crown & case back, and sapphire crystal.

Specifications include:

• 40mm Sainless steel case (44mm with crown), 46mm height lug to lug, 12mm depth
• Screw-down crown, screw-down case back with 20atm / 200m water-resistance
• Domed sapphire glass for scratch-resistance and durability
• Anti-reflective coating on crystal
• Light Vintage colour SuperLuminova markings on dial and hands
• Ronda Lithium 715Li movement
• Long life battery (7+ years)
• Weight (without strap): 58g
• Fixed strap bars, 20mm lugs
• Supplied with 20mm grey strap
• Three year warranty

Although CWC have announced the release of the new G40, at the time of writing, they are still awaiting stock so if you’re interested in getting hands on, we advise you to register your interest.

Available from www.cwcwatch.com for £399

According to Oris, “The colours are lifted from nature, particularly the deep ocean green, a shade that also picks up on the oaky green tones of the forested hills that surround our Hölstein factory.” Behind the watch’s retro façade is a contemporary mechanical chronograph movement, Oris Calibre 771. As well as providing running-second and chronograph 30-minute subdial indications, it also delivers an impressive 62-hour power reserve.

Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 metres), the watch is supplied on either a sustainably sourced Cervo Volante deer leather strap, or on a stainless steel bracelet.

Available now from www.oris.ch for £3,550