Although Seiko is one of the more approachable watch brands in watchmaking today they typically suffer from the perception as a “shopping mall watch” as they are often carried by high street jewellers in window displays along with brands such as Citizen, Garmin and Hamilton- which leads boutiques to carry only similarly priced pieces for a consumer comparison. This means that the average consumer only really gets to see and experience Seiko’s entry level Seiko5 range or Seiko’s mid-tier watches like the Prospex Samurai or the Turtle.
While these are still good watches at the £400 price point, Seiko are often criticised for their poor build quality, cheap feel and misaligned bezels accompanied by movements that run within laughable tolerances like -35 sec to +45sec a day (that’s up to 1min and 20 seconds variance per day!) However context is key here. Seiko are a full in-house watch company making every single piece of the watch’s internal and external components. They do so offering a fully mechanical watch to the consumer that is easily serviceable for many years to come and often these comparisons are made against watches that are 10 to 20 times the price as consumers get to see and feel more expensive brands on the high street such as TAG Heuer, Longines and Tudor – where the differences and build quality are like chalk and cheese. The majority of consumers are probably not even aware that Seiko makes ‘high-end’ models with premium materials, let alone get to see and experience one as they are much harder to find in a shop window and are often displayed along side cheaper Prospex models leading consumers to presume the price tag must be wrong.
So what do you get when you go “all-in” and buy a top of the range SLA series Seiko? Well we’ve been spending time with Seiko’s SLA073 to see just how it stacks up and what makes it different from
While most of Seiko range including the Seiko 5 and the normal Prospex models are mass produced, Seiko’s premium SLA watches are not made in the same factory or to the same standards. Instead, Seiko choose have them made alongside their more expensive stable-mate Grand Seiko in a facility more akin to the craftsmanship and experience you would see and expect in a Swiss atelier.
The Shizukuishi Watch Studio, located in the Iwate Prefecture of Japan, is the sole facility in Japan specializing in the production of high-end mechanical watches. It’s specifically where Grand Seiko’s 9S mechanical movements and watches are crafted. The studio is known for its integrated approach to watchmaking, encompassing everything from movement assembly to metal engraving, all performed by highly skilled technicians. Its here that the 8L35 is assembled and finished by hand. The 8L35 is essentially an undecorated version of the Grand Seiko calibre 9S55 with a larger diameter balance wheel to handle the torque needed for the larger dive watch hands. Although one notable difference is that the 8L35 is not adjusted or regulated to the same standards and tolerances as the GS9S55. So what does this mean in the real world? Well Seiko claims the accuracy of the 8L35 as -10/+15 seconds per day under normal temperature conditions (between 5-35 degrees C). While is possible that you may purchase a watch with an 8L35 that runs at +1 or +2 seconds a day (which lots of owners seem to claim) its equally possible that you could buy one that’s +15 seconds a day and that’s perfectly within Seiko claimed tolerances. This would mean that it’s gaining close to two minutes a week. As opposed to a COSC movement that gains a maximum of 42 seconds a week. This particular SLA073J1 is running at + 3 seconds per day. By shipping unregulated movements Seiko are clearly trying to protect the value of their Grand Seiko brand, however should you wish, you could have your 8L35 regulated which will then run within the same tolerances as movements shipped by Grand Seiko.
A hallmark of Grand Seiko is its attention to detail on the surface of its dials – something it has become world renown for – producing some of the most beautiful and elegant textured surfaces that are admired the world over. Here the SLA073 has inherited some of this attention to detail from its bigger brother and has been treated to a gradient ice blue textured dial paying homage to cave divers who wore the original 1968 Seiko Diver this model is based on. While this dial is not made by Grand Seiko, it does offer a gorgeous level of depth and detail. A date window sits between 4 & 5 ensuring the continuity of symmetry of the hour indices which are treated with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite which brings a number of benefits including both a longer duration and higher intensity making the dial very easy to read in dim or pitch black environments. Exposing the dial to direct sunlight for 10 minutes is enough to allow the indices to glow for 3-5 hours. Even on an overcast day, the LumiBrite is able to soak up a sufficient charge throughout the day to glow for many hours.
The case of the SLA073 includes surfaces that are Zaratsu polished which is a technique used to create a distortion-free, mirror-like surface on watch cases, and it is a hallmark of Grand Seiko and some other high-end Seiko watches. The SLA073, with its stainless steel case, features this polishing method to achieve its sharp edges and flat surfaces accompanied by alternating brushed surfaces. This is then treated with Seiko’s DiaShield coating. DiaShield is a surface treatment applied to the watch case to enhance scratch resistance and maintain the watch’s original appearance. It is a hard coating that protects the watch from minor scratches and scuffs, keeping it looking new for longer. The case shape tapers upwards at the edges allowing the case to sit comfortably on the wrist along with its iconic off-set precision milled crown at 4 o’clock. In addition the case includes drilled lugs that make strap changes a breeze as well as reducing the likelihood you’re going to scratch that Zaratsu polished case. Turn the watch over and the case back features Seiko’s signature deep engraving of the great wave of Kanagawa in the centre.
The unidirectional steel bezel is accompanied by a gloss finish black ceramic insert with a LumiBrite pip embedded within the top triangular marker and etched indices for each minute, 5 minutes and numerical values for each 10 minutes. The teeth on the bezel allow a very positive grip and the bezel action is spot on. Perfectly aligned with no play whatsoever – just a positive, reassuring, almost dampened feel to the rotation.
Bracelets are not Seiko’s strong suit. No matter the cost of the watch, the bracelets that have come on watches from Seiko are not good. They are typically hollow steel bracelets with pressed clasps put together with push pins rather than screws. While that may be acceptable on a watch that costs £100-£400 (some would say ‘expectedly commensurate’) I strongly feel that on Seiko’s best watches that customers are paying £2500 – £4000 there is a reasonable expectation for a solid, well designed and well built bracelet.
The bracelet on the SLA073 does have notable improvements. The links of the bracelet itself seem well made and display a combination of brushed and polished finishes tapering from 20mm to 18mm at the clasp with solid end links. The deployant clasp consists of a fold over safety clasp, twin buttons to release the top as well as a diver extension. However while the underside of the clasp is milled, the top is a piece of thin pressed steel with 4 holes for micro adjustment. The fold over safety clasp is also pressed steel with the Seiko logo laser etched on it. The divers extension on the bracelet is made entirely of stamped/pressed steel. This not only feels incredibly cheap and certainly not commensurate with a watch costing two to three thousand bounds, but due to its poor design the links do not fully articulate and remain at an angle when fully open and therefore unable to conform to the shape of your wrist. Unfortunately there are no screws present and the bracelet links are held together with push pins. Overall its clear that the bracelet has not had the same attention to detail that the actual watch itself has. Wearing the watch on the bracelet provides an acoustic ‘jangle’ due to the loose tolerances within the clasp. this is consistent with the feel of much cheaper Seiko’s
As an alternative, Seiko’s rubber straps are completely the opposite. These are very well made and include a metal collar embedded within the strap to accommodate Seiko’s fat spring bars allowing them to freely articulate and reinforce its connection to the watch. The buckle is substantial, milled and with a mixture of brushed and polished edges, and the rubber has a detailed and textured surface which includes a deeply embossed imaged of the Great Wave off Kanagawa on the tip in line with the case back.
Seiko’s take on the NATO strap called the Seichu is crafted using traditional Japanese braiding techniques, and pays homage to the artistry once used to create cords for securing kimono sashes. The result is a strap that not only showcases a distinctive Japanese aesthetic but also offers superior strength, flexibility, and all-day comfort.
Sadly the SLA073 doesn’t come with either of these two – both of which feel extremely comfortable and add to (rather than subtract from) the overall wearing experience.
Seiko have produced more expensive limited editions like the SLA055 & SLA057 which use Ever-Brilliant steel (which is 904L steel). While this may have improved corrosion resistance, 316L is actually a harder steel than 904L. Side by side with the human eye the difference is visually imperceptible, however at this increased price point, Seiko clearly feel their bracelet is not up to the price point as these come with both their rubber and Seichu straps but not the bracelet.
We’ve worn this SLA073 on its bracelet, on Seiko’s rubber strap and on a Bark & Jack Seventy30 (as seen above) and while the bracelet is comfortable to wear, it certainly doesn’t impart the same premium feel as the watch. Oddly the watch feels much better on the rubber or a NATO Strap.
Bracelet aside, this is a Seiko built using premium materials in a facility dedicated to attention to detail. The result is a well built, beautifully finished watch that certainly stands up to it’s price point and indeed imparts a premium sensation that you just dont get with cheaper Seiko watches. In addition it’s an ISO6425 dive watch meaning each and every watch is tested to 125% of its depth rating which is not something most of their competitors do.
The SLA073 is a serious luxury dive watch with a stunning dial, finished with Grand Seiko details. Ditch the bracelet and grab Seiko’s rubber or Seichu fabric strap for a level of understated luxury and enjoy an ‘under the radar’ watch that punches well above it’s weight.
Available from www.seikoboutique.co.uk for £2600
